Princess Seams - by Sandra Betzina - take advantage of the fit.

I saw this article on the Power Sewing website and thought it was really useful

 While we’ve all heard that you get a better fit with princess seams, few garment sewers ever take advantage of just how great the fit could be.

 

For example, full high hips in back or butt would be camouflaged considerably by letting out the side back seams below the waist in back. This would eliminate the horizontal wrinkle at the waist and give enough fabric for the garment to set properly over the high hip.

Adjustments on princess seams are easy if you cut wider seam allowances to begin with. After fitting, these seam allowances can be cut down to eliminate bulk.

Another area where the princess seam could provide relief is the middle-back. Many complain as they age, that garments feel tight across the back or fit too closely, climbing to rolls in back.

 

• Once again, cut seams allowances wider so that alterations are possible.
• Let out the side back seam, starting 1” down from the shoulder to 1” below the waist.
• Sew gradual curves so that seams will press open properly.
• This seam can be taken in above the waist for a narrow back but a horizontal tuck across the entire back is usually necessary.

One area that does not benefit from the princess seams is the pot belly. Letting out the side front seam to make room for the every growing tummy only emphasizes it. Keeps this seam straight, creating more room by letting out the side seams.

A hollow above the bust can be eliminate by taking in the side front seam above the bust. If the princess seam goes into the armhole, you will need to fold out the same amount from the sleeve front.

Do this by taking a small horizontal fold in the sleeve front, just above the notch. Let the tuck taper to zero by the middle of the sleeve.