Sunday, 4 March 2012

Chanel Jacket - P's journey (1)

I recently posted that my sister in Scotland was getting married and that this would be the ideal opportunity to sew up my fabric from Linton Tweed into a Chanel style jacket.

So where do I start?  With the pattern I think.  For my test run I am using Burda 7934 view A, but will adapt this to look more like the Chanel jacket I posted about here and see pictures below.  I purchased this pattern at one of the sewing shows, it was being promoted by a lady called Gill Arnold, who does a variety of tailoring course (I attended a couple with her).  This came as a pack with chain (for inside the jacket) seam tape and interfacing too.

My first job was to cut out the pattern pieces (I really hate doing this) and press them before tissue fitting the pattern on myself.  I follow the Palmer Pletsch method of tissue fitting, as it does get you a little nearer the correct size, albeit that the paper is not as fluid as fabric.  I have cut out a size 14, however I normally need 12 for the top and 14 for the hips, but I will see how this pans out tomorrow.

Once I have have made any tissue adjustments, I will cut out a quick muslin to ensure that it fits ok.  Normally I do a FBA and a sway back adjustment.


If you look at the pattern I have selected, it is slightly rounded at the front, so I will need to square that off to achieve something like the pictures above.  I will also need to investigate the best way of edging the jacket.  At the moment I favour the jacket on the left with the black trim all the way round, and as I write this, I am even wondering if I have a better suited pattern - another job for tomorrow.  If you google Chanel jackets, there are so many variations, so I guess anything goes.

I also need to look at all the resources available to me for instructions on how to create my Chanel type jacket.  I found this interesting article on the Threads site  Behind the Seams: Producing "Inside a Chanel Jacket, and this one one Choosing Chanel-style Jacket trims.  Last but not least, and linking back to Threads again, this article from the Burda site, A Classic French Jacket - 70 hours to the dream.

I know that the Threads Magazine wrote a few articles on quilting the lining etc., so I need to just locate them and add them to my resources.  I think I will print out my resource material, and create a folder.

Thats all for now, watch this space, there is more to come on this subject, as I work my way through this project.

Catch you later...................







3 comments:

  1. I think the issue you want is #121. That is the one with the Kahlje article. Also, I think it is 128 that has the speeded up methods. Not totally sure on that one.

    I can't wait to see how this works up for you. Working with the Linton tweed will be wonderful. Have you thought about lining yet? I know you will pull this all of beautifully and it will be wonderful for the wedding.

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  2. I can hardly wait to see this jacket. I hope you put in a unique lining. Will be keeping my eye on your posts.

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  3. Glad to see you are doing well and (planning)sewing again.
    Looking forward to see your posts on this jacket. Great inspiration jackets.

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